Sat. Feb. 20, 2010

Once we were back in Chennai we had dinner at the very exclusive Taj Connimara Hotel. We had been there on several other trips over the years. About 10 years ago we celebrated Pongal there. Pongal is the big harvest festival in the south. JP had the fabulous Indian buffet. There was no way I could do the buffet justice, so had linguine with shrimp. After dinner we had tea on the beautiful patio and saw a performance of Bharat Natyam, the most exquisite classical South Indian dance form. During our Pongal visit here we had the buffet on this patio and saw another performance of Bharat Natyam. Jai will remember that night as he was so sick. This time the dance was less than spirited, which we could understand as no one except us was paying any attention. Dinner cost us as astounding $60. I'm sure you can see a performance of Bharat Natyam on U-Tube. My daughter, Catharine, took some lesson as a kid, but got tired of being the only non-Indian in the class. It is an extremely precise dance form where the position of eyes, neck, head tilt, and finger formations are all part of it. The dancers all have thick ropes of bells around their ankles that jangle as they stomp their feet.
The next morning we got into the auto rickshaw to go see St. Thomas Mount. There seemed to be a discussion between Mom, who had been sweeping the house/sidewalk and the driver about taking one of the little boys with us, but the driver said no, we would be gone too long. After driving about 15 minutes, the driver stopped at a gas station and filled a 12 oz. glass coke bottle with gas. Gas costs $5.00 per gallon and these little autorickshaws don't use much. We passed piles of coconuts as we drove. Coconuts are sold for the milk. When someone buys one, the guy selling them wacks the top off and gives it to the person to drink. Then the rest of the coconut is thrown away in a pile.
In 68AD St. Thomas was martyred by Rajah Mahadevan, King of Mylapuram. We went to the "Little Mount" where we entered into a small cave where St. Thomas hid for about 10 years before being killed. I was surprising moved and cried. There is a hand print in the stone that is said to be that of St. Thomas. It occurred to me that if Jesus had been here for those lost 30 years, he probably meditated in this cave, as Thomas had. We then went to St. Thomas Mount, high up overlooking the city. This is where, 10 years ago, the little nun showed me the bone of Thomas and the spearhead that killed him. The 12 stations of the cross line the very long and steep climb to the top. It was very hot and JP didn't quite make it to the top. I was determined and, with many stops to rest, made it to the top. It was different now, but still very beautiful. There were several little churches and the little Basilica which was built in 1551. There is also now a St. Thomas Babies' Home. Pope John Paul II was here in 1986. There was also a painting that was supposedly painted by St. Luke in 50 AD. As I walked down the long path, I finally heard the haunting Moslem call to prayer, the Muzzin.
We were hot and exhausted as we entered the Mian Khum Thai Restaurant. It was like walking into Heaven, cool, clean and elegant. We were immediately given two neatly wrapped cold wet cloths served on a tray. It was just wonderful. We wiped our faces and hands, then laid the cloth on the backs of our necks. Compared to Asian sensibilities, we are barbarians. Next came a tray with small dishes containing bits of roasted coconut, diced lime, ginger, onion, chilies, and peanuts, along with a pile of small green palm leaves. We put a little of the sweet palm jaggery sauce on a leaf, filled it with a little of the different items listed, rolled it up and popped it into our mouths. Divine. Coconut soup came next. Although JP and I never thought it possible, it was even better than the coconut soup at the Thai restaurant near Catharine's house in San Diego. I had Pad Thai. JP had a rice dish. Both delicious. We were then served lemongrass tea, which I immediately fell in love with. I asked the woman serving it how it was made. She said the lemongrass was crushed first and was the only ingredient. That was the most she was able to tell me as her English was very limited. I will definitely experiment and figure out if it is a decoction or an infusion.
The 24 hour train ride from Chennai to Bhopal was made worth while by the couple who sat across from us. They were in their 70's and positively charming. He was an editor of a weekly magazine dealing with social matters. This couple is the flower of Indian society. They have lived together for over 50 years and still find each other interesting. I especially loved seeing him chuckle at something or other she was saying. As the day went on, she would come sit by me and put her hand on my arm, and the friendship was sealed. They live here in Bhopal and insisted we come for tea before we leave. They were also here on that terrible day when the Union Carbide disaster happened, killing 4000 people and injuring thousands more. Somehow they both managed to get gas masks and helped as many people as they could to safety. I noticed that she called him Papa. It made me think of the the first time I met JP's family. He had failed to tell me that a woman never addresses her husband by name as this is thought to shorten his life. No wonder JP's family looked at me strangely as I called him Jitendra every three seconds. They must have thought I had married him for his money and was trying to bump him off as quickly as I could.
The driver is here to take us around Bhopal so I will close for now. I think I will be able to do a post tomorrow.

Peace,
Nadine