Thur, Feb.18, 2010


Before we left Pondicherry, we went to the Shri Aurobindo Ashram, where he and Ma's ashes are buried. It was founded in 1926 by Aurobindo and a French woman called "The mother". The whole ashram is bedecked with plants and flowers. There was a constant flow of people into the ashram and many people sitting in meditation around the samadhi (raised platform containing the ashes). Beautiful intricate designs created in flowers covered the samadhi. All I know of Aurobindo's philosophy is his attempt to merge yoga and science. JP bought a few small books about his philosophy which I will read on the train this evening.
We also passed the ancient Sri Manakula Vinayagar Ganesha temple, complete with a baby elephant. The elephant wore silver ankle bracelets, flowers, brass bells around his neck, and sacred markings on his ears and body. For a few pennies we bought a bunch of greens for the elephant. It was trained to take the greens from your hand with its trunk, then touch your head with its trunk in blessing. It was a really great experience. We had a breakfast of pancakes which were actually thin crepes soaked in maple syrup. That darn Indian sweet tooth. Even the fennel was coated in sugar. After a meal Indians usually serve fennel seeds that clean the pallet and help digestion. Then on the bus for the four hour trip back to Chennai. The trip followed the sea as it went north, and the breeze pummeled me the whole trip. Glorious. There is so much empty land along the sea where fishing villages once stood. So sad. There are also the new hotels and spas and land for sale. I hope the people actually got some help from the money donated by the world. As we left Pondicherry I thought of the nerve of the English and French to come to India and change the names of the streets and towns: Varanasi to Banares, Chennai to Madras, Mumbai to Bombay, Puducherry to Pondicherry, Colcutta to Calcutta. It was like the Indians just did not matter at all. At least the English gave the gifts of a unifying language and trains. JP's voice is now totally gone. No infection though.
When we arrived back at the Comfort Hotel in Chennai we were warmly greeted by the staff, who now know us since we have been here so much throughout the trip. Mom across the street also recognized me and waived. Then with a smile, put her hand out for money. This woman is not a beggar, but she knows I have been interested in her family and it is just too good an opportunity to pass up. When we leave Chennai for the last time tonight, I will give her some money, mostly in reparation for having the arrogance to feel sorry for her. While JP checked in, the young staff members laughed as I plunked down on the sofa, exhausted. No more "Yes, Madam", "No, Madam". I was ordered to sit as they put all the suitcases on the lift, then ordered to "Come". Up to the room I was taken. They opened the door to the room and told me to "Sit". TV was turned on to an English channel and the air was turned on. Then I was ordered to "Rest". I was so touched. These guys know me and like me for who I am, not what I am.
Now we are about to leave to finally go to St. Thomas Mount and Cathedral, I hope. We leave at about 5PM today to take a 24 hour train trip to Bhopal, the site of that terrible Union Carbide disaster in 1984. Will write again after I recover from the long train trip.

Peace,
Nadine