I've finally made it back to the internet cafe. Like everything here, it is barely working. If it fails, all will be well in several days. We will be leaving for Varanasi tonight by train, if it ever gets here. It is already 5 hours late. We will sleep on the train, always an adventure. The family there has a good computer which Jai brought them, so I will be able to blog to my heart's content.
As we walk to this internet cafe (which is not a cafe but several broken down computers and wobbly chairs) we pass by a fractal composit of India. We are greeted with a smile by the ironing man and his wife, who remember us from past trips. Their "shop" is a platform of bricks under a tree which serves as his ironing board. His iron is a huge metal thing filled with hot coals. His wife folds the ironed clothes, ready to be picked up by their clients. Next we pass the cart selling saffron rice. Then comes the man squatting on the sidewalk mending clothes by hand and the barber shaving a man with a long straight razor. Cars, trucks, motor scooters and rickshaws zip by honking horns, but the various mini industries are undisturbed. The front of the various small stores that actually have roofs are always adorned with loud, smelly generators. The electricity in India goes on and off constantly. The country simply cannot provide enough power for its growing population. It is not just a matter of new plants. The infrastructure and capacity of the electrical grids are totally decrepit. Another more serious problem is water. All the new building has put a strain on the water supply. The family house here has water delivered every 4 or 5 days. This water is not potable, so they must buy drinking water. The poor people have no choice but to drink the non-potable water. Surbhi says they have built up an immunity to the pollutants. I hope this is just not wishful thinking.
I have not seen another Westerner here, so I am a major source of interest. Indians are not shy about staring. I just look at them and smile, sometimes shocking them into smiling back. I also make it a point to wave at little children or give them a pat on the head. Mothers everywhere appreciate attention to their children. No matter how poor or dirty these kids are, their beauty shines through: beautiful creamed coffee skins and huge dark eyes.
The other computer in this establishment is not working so JP is getting antsy. I will continue more comfortably once we get to Varanansi.
Peace,
Nadine

Thur. Jan. 14 was Makar Sankranti, the winter solstice celebration. Some stores were closed for this holiday, others opened. JP says it is more seriously celebrated in Varanasi.